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"You have people who have been told to eat fish because it's healthful,
but they have not been told it contains contaminants," says physician
Jane Hightower, whose yearlong study of patients in her Bay Area practice
was published Friday in Environmental Health Perspectives, an online journal
of the National Institute of Environmental Health Services, part of the
National Institutes of Health.
Concern is widespread:
A Food and Drug Administration advisory
committee recommended in July that the agency do research to assess the
risks to women and young children who eat canned tuna. The amount of methylmercury
per can is generally low, about 0.17 parts per million, but it can vary
widely, says Michael Bender of the Mercury Policy Project, an advocacy
group.
"Tuna is the most consumed fish in the country," Bender says.
"If you're a pregnant woman and you eat over two cans of tuna per
week, you can go over" safe levels of mercury. The FDA currently
recommends that women who are or could become pregnant limit all fish
to 12 ounces a week.
A survey of Hong Kong high school students
found that as many as 10% eat enough fish to exceed safety limits for
mercury exposure. The report, which prompted a Chinese government warning
about consumption of shark and other large fish, found that the students'
diets gave them a mercury exposure of 6.41 micrograms per kilogram (2.2
pounds) of body weight a week. The World Health Organization recommends
a 5-microgram limit.
In September, the
United Nations Environment Programme hosted a meeting in Geneva about
ways to reduce mercury emissions around the world. A report from that
meeting will be considered by environment ministers at a meeting of UNEP's
governing council in February and could lead to consideration of an international
treaty on mercury emissions.
Hightower's study and similar reports from other researchers who attended
a recent meeting in Vermont, sponsored by the EPA, suggest that consumers
who eat expensive fish are increasingly putting themselves at risk for
mercury poisoning.
"They are switching to fish to improve their health," says
Caroline Smith DeWaal of the Center for Science in the Public Interest,
but "they're being exposed to dangerously high levels of methylmercury."
That's especially troubling if the consumers are women who plan to have
children, says DeWaal, author of the recently published Is Our Food Safe?
"It is critical that women of childbearing age stop eating this fish
from six months to a year before becoming pregnant."
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates about 8% of
women in this age group have enough mercury in their bodies to pose a
risk of having babies with mild learning problems.
No set standards
Mercury released from power plants, municipal waste facilities and medical
incinerators is the primary source of methylmercury in fish. Methylmercury
is an organic form of mercury that is different from what is in mercury
thermometers or what goes up smokestacks when coal is burned.
Mercury is converted to methylmercury by bacteria in water. So when people
are talking about mercury in fish, they are really talking about the toxic
methylmercury. What makes it dangerous to health is that it is hard for
the body to eliminate, so it can build up and may affect the nervous system.
Most human exposure to methylmercury is through fish consumption.
The FDA ceased its large methylmercury sampling program in 1998, and
today federal agencies conduct only limited testing of fish for methylmercury.
The industry does, too, on a voluntary basis, says Rhona Applebaum, a
scientist with the National Food Processors Association. "Whether
it's mercury or any other defect, chemical or microbial, the industry
does regular testing" to assure that the product meets FDA standards.
"We do know tuna contains methylmercury," she says, but mercury
is "naturally occurring, so on a daily basis people are exposed.
It's not at levels that will result in acute toxicity unless people are
not practicing basic tenets of nutrition: balance, variety and moderation."
Studies show women ages 15-44 eat canned tuna 1.5 times a month, well
within the range of safety, but too much of anything can be harmful, she
says. "If people are going to consume one type of food literally
ad nauseam, there's going to be an impact."
The FDA and Environmental Protection Agency differ on what they consider
acceptable levels and measure it differently. The FDA, which regulates
commercially caught fish, sets an "action level" of 1 part per
million. If higher levels are reported, the FDA can remove the fish from
the market, though critics say that rarely occurs. The EPA has a "reference
dose" that says people can be exposed to .1 microgram per kilogram
of body weight per day, which is roughly 5 to 7 micrograms per day for
someone who weighs 100 to 154 pounds, says Kate Mahaffey of the EPA. That's
about a fifth of the amount the FDA considers safe.
The FDA's standard permits about 480 micrograms of methylmercury in one
pound of fish, she says. "If fish is that contaminated, and you're
trying to keep in the 5 to 7 micrograms per day range, you can't eat much
of that fish."
But the EPA does not regulate commercial fish. It works with state environmental
and health departments to test local rivers and other bodies of water
where recreational fishing is done and where mercury levels may be high
because of local pollution. When high levels of mercury are detected in
the water, the states post fish advisories to warn consumers.
"There are fish advisories in most states for mercury," says
Michael Gochfeld, professor of environmental medicine at the Robert Wood
Johnson Medical School in Piscataway, N.J.
Even in areas where industrial pollution has been reduced, the problem
persists because of atmospheric pollution drifting from other areas, he
says. "Virtually all our mercury-polluting industry in New Jersey
is closed," he says, but state health officials regularly warn residents
not to eat fish from specific lakes and rivers where mercury levels are
high. Ten states also warn pregnant women to limit consumption of canned
tuna and other commercial seafood.
Yet health experts point out that fish is an important part of a balanced
diet. It's full of vitamins and other nutrients, including omega-3 fatty
acids, which help lower cholesterol and blood pressure and reduce the
risk of cardiac arrest. And it's low in calories.
How that squares with mercury poisoning is "a very difficult message
to convey," says epidemiologist Tom Sinks of the National Center
for Environmental Health, part of the CDC. "Fish is a vehicle by
which people are exposed to mercury. But at the same time, fish is a good
source of protein and nutrients, an important part of the diet, and one
we want people to eat in a healthy way."
He says the fish that are high in omega-3, such as salmon and sardines,
are low on the mercury scale. "We want to encourage people not to
avoid fish, but to advise them that some fish have higher levels of mercury,
and if they're concerned, they should avoid those fish," he says.
The trouble, Hightower says, is that some people appear to be more sensitive
to methylmercury than others. The EPA and the National Academy of Sciences
recommend keeping mercury levels in blood at 5 micrograms per liter or
less. In Hightower's study, patients' blood levels ranged from 2 to nearly
90 micrograms per liter. Symptoms varied widely and did not always correlate
with the burden of methylmercury.
"There were some with elevated levels who had no symptoms. There
are some with low levels with symptoms," she says. "It is unclear
whether these patients are having symptoms due to direct effects of mercury
or a reaction to it," she says. But, she adds, most people can withstand
a bee sting, while others go into shock. "We recognize there are
severe reactions to very minuscule quantities of certain agents."
Hightower says it's not known how many people might be affected by methylmercury,
and she can't prove that the symptoms her patients suffered were caused
by overconsumption of fish, but "the funny thing is, people got better
when they stopped eating it."
Not eating fish helped
That's what happened to Wendy Moro, 40, a marketing consultant who lives
with her husband and son in a suburb of San Francisco. Until April 2001,
she says, she was the picture of health. A 110- pound bundle of energy,
she ran several miles a day, danced ballet, lifted weights. She also ate
fish two to five times a week, at home and at the Bay Area's better restaurants.
"On the West Coast, we eat a lot of fish," she says. "It's
an affluent community, and fish is accessible and popular. You go out
for dinner. People don't go out for T-bone steaks anymore. It's all fish."
She ate tuna for lunch a couple of times a week, and the family would
have seafood for dinner regularly, often choosing steak fish such as ahi
tuna or halibut. "We just looked for what was fresh," she says.
"I thought I was being really healthy, not eating meat, eating lots
of fish."
The first sign of trouble was severe fatigue -- "the kind where
it is impossible to stay awake for more than a few hours at a time,"
she says. Then pain and weakness in her limbs worsened to the point where
she could barely stand. A series of doctors diagnosed or tested her for
multiple sclerosis, muscular dystrophy, chronic fatigue syndrome, mononucleosis,
diabetes insipidus. One suggested she be evaluated for mental illness.
Finally, she was referred to Hightower, who tested her for mercury poisoning.
Moro's blood level was 17, more than three times the recommended level,
though still below what some doctors think is enough to cause such severe
symptoms.
When Moro stopped eating fish, her symptoms began to disappear. Now,
she says, she's "about 85%" back to normal. She keeps a file
on mercury that she gives to friends who are thinking about having a baby.
If it could happen to her, it could happen to anyone, she says. "I'm
such an average Jane. I live in a suburb; I have 1.5 kids, if you count
my dog. I'm not a super-fanatic, not a triathlete. I'm not super-rich
or poor. I'm just an average Joe-USA TODAY. That's what's scary."
Alan Stern, chief of the New Jersey Department of Environmental Protection
who served on a National Academy of Sciences committee on methylmercury
two years ago, says it's too soon to draw firm conclusions from Hightower's
study. "I would consider it to be the very early stages of a clinical
case description, and it's not at a point yet where it can be translated
into a public health message," he says.
Such reports, he says, "call our attention to the potential of health
effects at low levels of exposure (to methylmercury), but they don't make
an open-and-shut case."
Even the relief of symptoms reported by people who stop eating fish is
inconclusive, he says, because it is "hard to distinguish that from
a placebo effect. From an objective standpoint, one cannot say this association
goes to the next step of cause and effect."
But if nothing else, Stern says, consumers and doctors should be alert
to the possibility that small exposures to mercury in fish might cause
symptoms. His cautionary conclusion: "Individuals should choose their
diets wisely."
How mercury contamination spreads
-
The most common sources of mercury in air are coal-burning power
plants, municipal waste combustors, medical waste incinerators and
hazardous waste combustors.
- Tiny particles or mercury travel through smokestacks into the air.
They then fall onto soil or water.
- Mercury can accumulate in fish and wildlife. Small fish are eaten
by big fish, so big fish and fish-eating birds generally have higher
levels of contamination.
- Mercury can contaminate water or land through the discharge of industrial
wastewaters.
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